不同於去年僅匆匆在京都過境半天,今年留了比較多時間,想在京都訂米其林大餐,才發現京都老店毛超多,不給拍照、不能刷卡是小事,不接受信用卡祕書代訂、海外客人僅限入住旅館代訂,最跩的是僅接受熟客代訂,於是放棄跟這些老古板們打交道,往年輕、新銳廚師掌理的餐廳下手。
Rather than only a half-day stay last year, I planned to stay longer in Kyoto this year, and wanted to reserve seats in Michelin-starred restaurants. But soon I gave up old restaurants after finding various obstacles. Instead, I started to survey new restaurants operated by young management.
然後找到這家なる屋,主廚三十幾歲,有Facebook粉絲團,透過私訊通通搞定。
Then I found Naruya with its Facebook Page, and booked a seat via Facebook Messenger.
全店只有八個位子,當天除了我,只有另一組三個客人。
Only 8 seats available, and I was one of four customers in the evening.
主廚帶一位二廚,利用這麼簡單的設備料理各式佳餚。
The owner-chef and his assistant cooked tasty dishes by such simple equipment.
蟹膏,乍看很像海膽。
Sea urchin like crab butter.
醃鮪魚。
Tuna marinade.
魚鱗烤得脆脆好入口的嘉鱲魚。
Grilled red sea bream with crispy and easy-to-eat fish scales.
星鰻。
Conger eel.
整鍋飯通通是我的。
All the rice was mine.
裝味噌湯的碗好別緻。
What a delicate miso soup bowl!
偽裝成鮑魚的醃蘿蔔。
Abalone like radish pickle.
秋天的水果:水蜜桃、葡萄、還有主廚正在切的Pawpaw。
Autumn fruits: peach, grapes and pawpaw, which the chef was cutting.
Pawpaw的剖面長得很像釋迦,主廚把籽挑掉了,只剩果肉,口感也很像釋迦,但沒有釋迦那股特殊的香味。
The pawpaw had similar inside look and texture with the sugar apple(custard apple). However, the smell and flavor were totally different.
冰淇淋。
Ice cream.
搭配主廚親自刷的抹茶。
Served with Matcha freshly made by chef.
從一開始的菜色擺盤,到選用的水果,都或多或少出現純和風之外的元素,而且我注意到主廚用的是西式刀,好奇詢問才知道,原來他在紐約工作過三年!Pawpaw也是在紐約吃過才知道有此物。難怪!紐約的見識巧妙融入料理中。
I chatted with the chef and informed that he had worked in New York for 3 years. No wonder! From the beginning, I found elements beyond Japanese style appeared from presentation to fruits. Besides, I noticed he used western knives.
我也幫大家問了,主廚以簡單英語溝通沒問題,不諳日語的客人可以放心。
The chef speaks a little bit English, so don’t worry if you don’t speak Japanese.
路癡到達法:它離錦市場很近。錦市場中間有幾條叉路,先在錦市場找到一家叫嘉的麩店,背對它往右走(走橫出去的巷子,不是市場裡),數公尺就是了。
Get there as a no-brainer: Find a FU(Japanese wheat gluten) shop named 嘉 in Nishiki Market, walk right outside Nishiki Market for several meters, and you will find Naruya.
FU shop as follow:
Walk right,
Here’s Naruya.
https://www.facebook.com/なる屋-1502656739946967/
〒604-8127 京都市中京区堺町通錦小路上ル
+81 75-252-1199
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