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【京都】なる屋,巧妙融入洋味的京懷石Naruya, a little bit western twisted Japanese restaurant in Kyoto

不同於去年僅匆匆在京都過境半天,今年留了比較多時間,想在京都訂米其林大餐,才發現京都老店毛超多,不給拍照、不能刷卡是小事,不接受信用卡祕書代訂、海外客人僅限入住旅館代訂,最跩的是僅接受熟客代訂,於是放棄跟這些老古板們打交道,往年輕、新銳廚師掌理的餐廳下手。

Rather than only a half-day stay last year, I planned to stay longer in Kyoto this year, and wanted to reserve seats in Michelin-starred restaurants. But soon I gave up old restaurants after finding various obstacles. Instead, I started to survey new restaurants operated by young management.

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然後找到這家なる屋,主廚三十幾歲,有Facebook粉絲團,透過私訊通通搞定。

Then I found Naruya with its Facebook Page, and booked a seat via Facebook Messenger.

全店只有八個位子,當天除了我,只有另一組三個客人。

Only 8 seats available, and I was one of four customers in the evening.

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主廚帶一位二廚,利用這麼簡單的設備料理各式佳餚。

The owner-chef and his assistant cooked tasty dishes by such simple equipment.

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蟹膏,乍看很像海膽。

Sea urchin like crab butter.

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醃鮪魚。

Tuna marinade.

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魚鱗烤得脆脆好入口的嘉鱲魚。

Grilled red sea bream with crispy and easy-to-eat fish scales.

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星鰻。

Conger eel.

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整鍋飯通通是我的。

All the rice was mine.

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裝味噌湯的碗好別緻。

What a delicate miso soup bowl!

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偽裝成鮑魚的醃蘿蔔。

Abalone like radish pickle.

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秋天的水果:水蜜桃、葡萄、還有主廚正在切的Pawpaw。

Autumn fruits: peach, grapes and pawpaw, which the chef was cutting.

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Pawpaw的剖面長得很像釋迦,主廚把籽挑掉了,只剩果肉,口感也很像釋迦,但沒有釋迦那股特殊的香味。

The pawpaw had similar inside look and texture with the sugar apple(custard apple). However, the smell and flavor were totally different.

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冰淇淋。

Ice cream.

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搭配主廚親自刷的抹茶。

Served with Matcha freshly made by chef.

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從一開始的菜色擺盤,到選用的水果,都或多或少出現純和風之外的元素,而且我注意到主廚用的是西式刀,好奇詢問才知道,原來他在紐約工作過三年!Pawpaw也是在紐約吃過才知道有此物。難怪!紐約的見識巧妙融入料理中。

I chatted with the chef and informed that he had worked in New York for 3 years. No wonder! From the beginning, I found elements beyond Japanese style appeared from presentation to fruits. Besides, I noticed he used western knives.

我也幫大家問了,主廚以簡單英語溝通沒問題,不諳日語的客人可以放心。

The chef speaks a little bit English, so don’t worry if you don’t speak Japanese.

路癡到達法:它離錦市場很近。錦市場中間有幾條叉路,先在錦市場找到一家叫嘉的麩店,背對它往右走(走橫出去的巷子,不是市場裡),數公尺就是了。

Get there as a no-brainer: Find a FU(Japanese wheat gluten) shop named 嘉 in Nishiki Market, walk right outside Nishiki Market for several meters, and you will find Naruya.

FU shop as follow:

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Walk right,

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Here’s Naruya.

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https://www.facebook.com/なる屋-1502656739946967/

〒604-8127 京都市中京区堺町通錦小路上ル

+81 75-252-1199

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